Looking to level up your 3D printer’s game with automatic bed leveling? Our EZABL kits are here to help!
Whether your printer originally came without an Auto Bed Leveling (ABL) probe, or even if it did but you’re looking to upgrade, our EZABL kits have got you covered. They’re compatible with various 3D printer firmwares like Unified 2, Marlin, Klipper, and RepRap, making installation a breeze.
These are the super simplified steps to installing the kit
Powering the sensor can be achieved by running the included power wire from the EZABL control board to your printer power supply or by using an AC adapter (this is an optional addon). The kits run on 12-24V DC power input and consume 0.05A or less.
When wiring the printer to the power supply make sure to match positive and negative on the power supply end and the EZABL control board end. You should use the red wire for positive and the black wire for negative. If you are unsure of your wiring, contact us for verification.
This is an example using a common MeanWell PSU, yours may look slightly different but you will have the V+ and V- terminals like the above picture.
To set up your TH3D EZABL bed leveling kit, you’ll need to connect it to your printer’s control board. If your printer has a Z Endstop connection, you’ll use that. If not, any signal and ground pin will do. Our kit includes both a 3-pin header and a 2-position screw terminal to accommodate different printer models and boards.
If your printer’s Z endstop plug has 2 or 3 pins, simply plug it into the 3-pin JST XH header on our board. If it’s a 2-pin plug, connect it to pins 1 and 2 on the EZABL control box.
If your printer’s Z endstop connection differs from the JST XH plug or if it’s wired directly to an endstop switch, you’ll need to cut the wires and use the screw terminal to make the connection.
If you’re replacing a printer with a BLTouch/CRTouch with our kit, the simplest way is to order one of our signal cables along with the kit. If you bought a kit from a printer-specific page where a signal cable is usually required, it’s included. But if you purchased from the generic page, signal cables are not listed.
You can also make your own signal cable by reusing the cable from your old “touch” sensor, ensuring it’s connected to the correct pins on the control board (usually the Z Endstop header). If you’re unsure, feel free to reach out to us for assistance.
If your printer’s endstop plug has all 3 wires populated, remove the wire that carries the positive line. Though uncommon, it’s worth mentioning. We only need the Signal and GND wires connected to the EZABL control box. If you’re unsure about anything, don’t hesitate to contact us for help.
If your printer model is on our list of supported ones, we’ve got mounts available for the EZABL sensor kit for many of them. You can get these mounts ready-made in ABS from our store, or you can print them yourself using the files in our STL Pack.
When you’re attaching the sensor to the hotend, make sure you leave a bit of extra wire so it’s not pulled too tight. This helps prevent any strain on the cable, which could cause damage over time. If the cable gets damaged because it’s pulled too tight, it won’t be covered under warranty.
The NG sensors come pre-calibrated straight from the factory, so you won’t need to tinker with them too much. When you attach the sensor to your printer, there’s a light on it that should be on. For the NG, this light is blue, and for the NG-LITE, it’s red. Make sure this light is on when the sensor is at the right distance from your printer’s bed.
The idea is to have the sensor detect the bed before the nozzle actually touches it. Each sensor comes with two nuts that you can use to adjust its height in the mount.
You want to adjust the sensor in its mount so that it senses the bed when the nozzle is about 1-2mm away. If you’re using an 8mm sensor, it has a shorter detection range, so aim for a 1mm gap between the nozzle and the bed.
If you mount the sensor either too close or too far from the bed, it won’t work correctly and could even cause your nozzle to crash into the bed. To check if it’s at the right height, tell your printer to move the Z-axis up by 1-2mm and see if the LED light turns off. If it doesn’t, adjust the sensor in the mount until it does.
When you got your EZABL kit, you also got a copy of our Unified 2 Firmware. Check out the setup guide that matches your printer model. You can find all the firmware guides on the Unified 2 Firmware page.
If you are using Marlin please follow our guide here: EZABL Firmware Setup for “Vanilla” Marlin
If you are using Klipper please follow our guide here: EZABL Klipper Setup Guide
If you are using a Duet Board please follow our guide here: Duet Board Setup Information
After setting up the EZABL bed leveling kit on your printer and connecting the power and signal wires, it’s important to check if everything is working properly. You can do this by using a command called M119 on your printer. When you run this command, it should detect if the kit is talking to the control board.
If you don’t see any difference in the printer’s response when the sensor is triggered, don’t worry! Just switch the EZ Switch on the EZABL control box and try running the M119 command again.
If you still don’t see any change, double-check all your wiring connections. If you’re still having trouble, feel free to reach out to our support team for assistance.
Follow our guide below to update your slicer for your EZABL Installation Process here - https://tickets.th3dstudio.com/products/article/abl-bed-leveling-starting-gcode-guide-%E2%80%93-ezablcrtouchbltouch
You’ve successfully installed your EZABL NG Kit! Please make sure you are not using old GCode that was sliced before you installed the kit as you need to have our new starting GCode in order for the system to work correctly.
If you need any additional help make sure to contact us as you do get technical support included with your EZABL NG Kit purchase! Thank you for choosing TH3D and we hope our kits make your printing experience smoother and easier.
This is the calibration screw for the sensor. DO NOT TOUCH THIS unless support has directed you to. Changing the screw will mess up the calibration of the sensor.
There are status LEDs on all the sensors. The NG series has blue status LEDs and the NG-LITE series has red status LEDs. These status LEDs will be off when the sensor is not triggered and on when the sensor is triggered.
There are 2 LEDs on the EZABL Control Box. The green led should be lit when the printer is on – this is power status. The red led will be lit when the sensor is triggered (aka detecting something) and off when not triggered.
